

Norway's arctic north cast a spell upon the
youthful Knut Hamsun, the novelist who would win the Nobel Prize for
his lyrical portrayal of this majestic landscape and its people.
white picket fence graced with summer flowers frames a modest
farmhouse overlooking a vista of mountains and sea. A child once
wandered the surrounding pastures, looking upon the world with
wonder and discovering a vocation in the solitude of forests and
fjords.
Novelist
Knut Hamsun grew to maturity in the 1860s and '70s in this distant
land, high above the Arctic Circle. For him the coastal villages of
Nordland were a canvas upon which was painted the enigma of human
personality. The glacier-carved mountains, fjords, and woods around
Hamaroy were imprints of a mysterious divinity, objects to study
and parables of life to describe--in language that would win him the
Nobel Prize in literature. (See also "Knut Hamsun: Father of
the Modern School of Literature"). | Knut Hamsun's home in
Hamaroy, restored to its nineteenth-century appearance and open to the public.
"I give thanks for the lonely
night, for the hills, for the whispering of the darkness and the
sea," he wrote. "Listen in the east and listen in the
west, but listen! That is the everlasting God! This stillness
murmuring in my ear is the blood of all nature seething, is God
weaving through the world and through me."
The endless summer nights for Hamsun
"colored the horizon with a fatty, red light, motionless like
oil. Everywhere the sky was open and pure. I gazed into the clear
sea and it was as if I lay face to face with the depths of the
earth, and as if my beating heart went out to those depths and was
at home there. God knows, I thought to myself, why the horizon
clothes itself in mauve and gold tonight; or perhaps there is some
celebration above the world."
Hamsun
moved to a coastal village in nearby Tranoy when he was fourteen
to work as a clerk. The building still clings to the water's edge,
now outfitted as a gallery dedicated to Hamsun and his work. Outside
a child bends close to the ground to gather berries and befriend the
creatures near the earth. "I stop," Hamsun wrote with
rapture, "turn in all directions and, weeping, call birds,
trees, stones, grass and ants by name, I look about and name them
each in turn. . . . I take up a dry twig and hold it in my hand as I
sit there and think my own thoughts; the twig is nearly rotten, its
meager bark distresses me, and pity steals through my heart."
 | The shop in
Tranoy where Hamsun worked as a clerk is now a gallery dedicated to Hamsun's works.
ishing is a timeless vocation
binding men to the sea. Docks, factories, and drying racks for rich
catches of cod recall the world Hamsun knew. On the horizon across
the open water the sharp peaks of the Lofoten Islands form a spiny
ridge. Hamsun worked there as a schoolmaster before going south to
Bodo to serve as a shoemaker's apprentice and publish an early
collection of poetry. A stately twelfth-century church is among the
few structures that survived German bombardment of the city during
World War II. Today the waterfront is a vibrant boating center and
jumping-off point for yachts, fishing boats, and ferries servicing
the far-flung communities to the north.
With bold confidence, Hamsun traveled
to the trading center of Kjerringoy forty miles north of Bodo to
obtain a loan from the wealthy merchant Erasmus Zahl, with which to
pursue his literary ambitions in Copenhagen. Today Kjerringoy is
preserved as Norway's finest example of the
"all-inclusive" trading centers that functioned in the
nineteenth century like medieval manors, with Zahl the presiding
lord. | The waterfront in the regional center of Bodo.
A demure young woman attired in
period dress guides visitors through the main residence, a scene
young Hamsun would have recognized as he approached Zahl with his
audacious request. A general store where Hamsun briefly worked, a
warehouse, and a handful of farm buildings encircle a picturesque
public garden. Kjerringoy is thought to be the model of many of his
Nordland village portrayals, and a bust of the writer stands along a
lonely path.
These tidy, intimate communities are
often agitated by the arrival of an outsider in Hamsun's fiction.
Through this device, Hamsun probes the tangled riddle of human
affections, particularly the fateful play of desire, pride, and
trust between man and woman.
Hamsun's lovers typically meet by
chance along a forest path:
"I
am depressed and full of sad thoughts," I say.
And in her sympathy she makes no answer.
"I
love three things," I say then. "I love a dream of love I
once had, I love you, and I love this patch of earth."
"And
which do you love the best?"
"The
dream."
So
it seems of Hamsun. His ecstatic prose and poetry are the fruitful
produce of this dreamlike world, little changed but for the penetration of paved roads and modern
communications. | Midnight in
Hamaroy, Nordland.
Eric
P. Olsen is associate executive editor at The World & I. He
would like to thank the Norwegian Tourist Board and Nordland Tourism
for generous assistance. For information on travel to Nordland,
visit www.visitnorway.com.
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