From the fairy-tale castles of the Ardennes to the bustling banking and diplomatic center of its capital, Luxembourg is the historic crossroads of Europe.

Country garden on the outskirts of town.

t the center, since Roman times, of one of the great trade crossroads of Europe, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg proves that a small country can be both beautiful and influential. The massive fortress of the Bock, carved inside a mountain in the heart of Luxembourg's capital, could endure many a siege. "Here there was always war," a local historian tells me. But the fairy-tale castles of the Ardennes testify to a history of diplomatic, not military, success. Over the centuries, carefully crafted marriages between Luxembourg's aristocracy and other European royal families have helped secure the nation's existence. Indeed, the grand duchy's triumph is to coexist with its bigger, more powerful neighbors, not to try to compete with them.
        The struggle to maintain Luxembourgish language, culture, and independence continues even in the settled era of the European Union. Today, it is estimated that 55 percent of the residents in the city of Luxembourg are foreigners. The European Court of Justice and several European

Memorial to General Patton, whose victories during the Battle of the Bulge liberated the Grand Duchy from Nazi occupation.

Commission administrative buildings are located here, and more than eighty thousand foreign residents cross the country's borders each day to work in the duchy. Television and other print media can be found in German, French, and other languages. In fact, Luxembourgers must dedicate so much time to the study and use of French, German, and English that their own literature and stories are almost forgotten. These receive little attention other than as an informal medium to unite local and immigrant children in primary school.
        Its cosmopolitan character makes Luxembourg an accommodating destination and unexpected pleasure for visitors. The city's

Independence Day festivities in Hosingen.

historic Old Town fascinates. Shopping and other facilities in the city proper are as modern and diverse as in any large urban center. Americans are particularly moved by memorials--found in towns once razed to the ground by war--to the American and Allied forces who fought in the Battle of the Bulge in the harsh winter of 1944. Picturesque medieval castles dominate the small towns scattered throughout the Ardennes mountains, and scenic and historic sites abound. Luxembourg continues its historic role as a meeting place and center of banking and trade. This may be one of Europe's smallest countries, but it is also one of the most remarkable.