As membership in the European Union draws closer, abounding optimism permeates the streets of Poland.

s membership in the European Union approaches, abounding optimism permeates the streets of Warsaw. The results of a referendum showed that 77 percent of Poles favored inclusion. Jan Nowak-Jezioranski, the former managing director of Radio Free Europe, described the referendum as the "vote of a lifetime."
        Though hopes seem to grow with each passing day, opinions about the benefits of the move range from unreasonable expectations to mere resignation. Some believe there must be an almost instantaneous transformation, while others fear that no effect will occur for generations. There are certainly those who oppose membership, such as the staunch supporters of the old communist regime. Often, these are people who once held positions of authority. Many of them are now clerks in hotels or work in relatively menial jobs. Most have few skills to offer in the new growth economy.
        The majority of people, however, feel that EU membership will affect their lives in a positive way in the not-so-distant future. Especially happy are many small business owners, who see change looming just over the horizon. Indeed, for the first time in nearly a century, Poland may be on track to prosper in the coming decades.
        Historically, Poland's geographic location has been more of a curse than a blessing. Over the centuries, foreign empires have marauded Poland's resources and redrawn its borders more than a dozen times. The nation must still contend with

Young and old join in calls for political reform.

well-entrenched Russian Mafia gangs and endemic corruption. Despite this, there are encouraging signs of an emerging political transparency, and politicians who collaborate with criminal enterprises are increasingly being held accountable. Some say the days of political corruption are numbered.
        I had my own personal experience with the Mafia. My guide, Halina, suggested I see an important part of the illegal economy (and possibly pick up a few bargains in the process). We began our early morning venture by going to an old sports stadium and climbing to the first level. We were met on the stairs by several men in black. They blocked our path in an imposing fashion. As I struck my most innocent and naive tourist pose, Halina tried to allay the concerns of the group's leader. He was perturbed about the cameras I was carrying. After a lengthy negotiation, the seemingly unconvinced group of enforcers allowed us to pass, but only with our specific agreement that no pictures would be taken.
        Long defunct, the stadium now houses a flea market that sells low-cost, untaxed goods and is strictly controlled as a Mafia enterprise. Many of the venders are immigrants of Ukrainian, Albanian, and Armenian descent who came to Poland in pursuit of a better life. As we walked the length of the market, they frequently warned me about pickpockets. One even told me that an attempt had already been made, with a device especially designed for the task. I didn't see the device or person but thanked the vendor and moved on. A few steps later, my firmly tethered camera hit the ground with a thud.

A farmer's wife shows off a horse and foal in a farmyard near the rural town of Kyspinow.

I couldn't imagine there had been an attempt to steal the camera. It was quite well secured to my waist and could not have been taken without my knowledge. I believed instead that one of those imposing gentleman in black was giving me a not-so-subtle message that it was time to leave. I took the hint.
        The following day, I came upon a spirited political protest. "Protests were not possible just a few years ago," 19-year-old Agnesia, a bright, smiling girl with near-textbook English, cheerfully informed me. What about the police who were standing nearby, I asked. Would they interfere with the protest? "No, they're here to protect us," she declared. "We welcome them here. For years we've had politicians who don't represent us, whom we didn't vote for. We want the chance to elect our own officials."
        Indeed, throughout my visit to the major cities of Warsaw and Krakow, I sensed a growing belief that real changes are imminent. Some Poles appear to be waiting for these things to happen, while others are busy preparing for them. The coming transition marks a new chapter for a people who haven't seen prosperity for a number of generations. Though Poles are besieged with the memories from the Holocaust and the subsequent rigidity of communist rule, their country's chance to shine may finally be near.

Mark Downey is a freelance photographer based in California. A contributor to The World & I since 1986, he was recently honored as the 2004 Photographer of the Year by the Society of American Photographers.