Tending the plants, including tropical ones, in the hothouse at Eden in Hveragerdi.(RACHEL BUCHMAN)

Even chickens have a place in the hearts of Icelanders. Gudmur tells me about a uniquely Icelandic chicken, which, she says, used to be part of the household. "And you know, chickens are very social animals," she instructs, "But nowadays, I'm sorry to say, it's more like a factory. Though she jokingly supports their chance at individuality, she is only half kidding.
       
In 1928, Isobel Wylie Hutchison wrote about her "Walking Tour Across Iceland" for National Geographic. Even then, she recorded the longing of Icelanders for things distinctively Icelandic, among them their unique horse. "In twenty-five years," said country minister Sera Albertsson regretfully, "the pony will be a luxury in Iceland. It will be all 'bils' [automobiles] and bridges and roads." Horses are still used to round up sheep in the spring and for a few other farm tasks, but they are no longer used for transportation, except in emergencies. They are a luxury both in the sense of entertainment and in that they easily embody so many Icelandic values. Though Icelanders respect and seem to love all their specially bred animals, the horse stands out as truly Icelandic.