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Stranded on Krakatau


Article # : 12525 

Section : LIFE
Issue Date : 7 / 1987  3,534 Words
Author : Richard Bangs
Richard Bangs is the author of Island Gods, Whitewater Adventure, and Riding the Dragon's Back, which won the Lowell Thomas Award for the best travel book of 1989. He is the founder of SOBEK Expeditions, an international travel-adventure company, which has become part of Mt. Travel-SOBEK.

       Had the fierce ashes of some fiery peak
        Been hurled so high they ranged around the world
        For day by day through many a blood-red eve
        The wrathful sunset glared.
       
        - Alfred, Lord Tennyson, 1883
       
        "The truth is, you've got a 20 percent chance of making it out and back in a small boat, 80 percent in a large boat."
       
        Axel Ridder's warning rang through my mind as the boat shuddered with another wave. I tried to reassure myself. We had hired a "large boat," the Ernarosa, a 10-meter traditional Pinisi diesel-powered trawler, to navigate the 40 kilometers across the Sunda Straits from West Java. But I had put my hand through the rotted sideboards of the Ernarosa while being bounced about below deck: This didn't inspire any extra confidence. We were attempting this jaunt in January, the stormiest month of the monsoon season.
       
        The boat's rhythmic pitching slapped an untethered hatch door to time, and I felt myself drifting off into sleep.
       
        A wild list of the boat punched the dusty moment of unconsciousness, tossing me off the bench where I slept and onto the keel floor. The Ernarosa lurched again, and with a crack like a cannon report, a wave burst through our compartment and washed over me.
       
        "George, I think we're ... (1992 of 19471 Characters)
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