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Hong Kong's New Cuisine
| Article
# : |
18319 |
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Section : |
LIFE
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| Issue
Date : |
10 / 1990 |
2,566 Words |
| Author
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Alma Lach
Alma Lach is a free-lance food writer living in Chicago. |
Hong Kong, despite mounting anxieties about its future, is today enjoying a quiet reshaping - perhaps even a mild revolution - of its venerable eating habits. The Cantonese cooking long traditional in this world center is being modified by a host of outside influences - Asian, European, and American. The thick, heavy sauces often found in Cantonese dishes are being lightened by the introduction of such "exotic" foreign products as asparagus, grape wine, butter, milk, and even mayonnaise.
Always willing to experiment, Hong Kong's Cantonese chefs are eager to work with such alien ingredients as asparagus. Our ordinary foods are often treated in innovative ways, and in the process new dishes are created - for example, "deep-fried" milk.
On my most recent culinary visit, I systematically explored the best hotel dining rooms in the colony. I chose hotel restaurants because that is where most travelers eat, and, as I learned, so do most of the well-heeled locals.
Nowadays the diner is usually offered two menus in these posh places. One lists the traditional dishes and the other offers "specialties." Those who choose the first option will receive individual bowls of rice but will partake jointly of the common dishes, using only chopsticks. In the new cuisine of small courses, each diner may enjoy a few exotic dishes of his own, using either chopsticks or knife and fork.
When I took friends from the Chinese University of Hong Kong to dinner at the Celestial Court restaurant in the Sheraton Hotel, we selected from both lists. Ordering this way
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