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The Dark Wanderer: Gypsies Honor a Patron Saint
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14942 |
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Section : |
CULTURE
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| Issue
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6 / 1996 |
1,571 Words |
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Jacqueline Koch Freelance writer and photographer Jacqueline Koch resides on
Vashon Island. |
Whatever Mother Nature has in store for this little town on the Mediterranean coast of France, the tempest brewing in its streets, cafés, and bars will be hard to match. It is the eve of the annual celebration of Saint Sarah la Kali (Sarah, the dark one), when thousands of Gypsies from all over the world come to honor their patron saint with traditions that are uniquely theirs. As evening approaches, there is a break in the weather, and the sun peeks out from the clouds as it nears the horizon. As the air clears, a genuine storm unleashes. Guitars reappear, and a spark of gaiety crackles like lightning. A chorus of palma, the flamenco handclap, fills the room like thunder, and the clicks of heels fall onto the floor like heavy drops of rain.
Guy Pierre Geneuil throws his arms into the air and proclaims, "This is Gitania! This land belongs to the Gypsies!" The 62-year-old Manouche Gypsy and veteran pilgrim has authored several books chronicling Romany myths and legends, including that of Sarah la Kali. His version portrays a young Egyptian woman, living in solitude and in harmony with the earth, and unveils the myth of the "Original Dark Wanderer." Although accounts vary, her wisdom and generosity remain consistent with the pioneering spirit that brought her to western Europe.
A nomadic ally
By most historical accounts, Saint Sarah is a more recent addition to the legend that gave Saintes Maries de la Mer its name. The tale follows the biblical figures that made it their home: Mary Magdalene and the mothers of apostles James and John, Mary Jacobe and Mary Salome. Following the death of Jesus Christ, they, like many Christians, were persecuted and
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