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September Issue |
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Photography and text by Michel Friang
 |  The "princess"and her page girls arrive at Kamigamo Shrine.
 very year thousands of matsuri, or traditional festivals, are held throughout Japan. The original Shinto Matsuri has been practiced for centuries. It can be traced as far back as 300 b.c, when rice farmers performed rites to ensure a good harvest. They also used matsuri to ask for good health and pacify their gods.
In Japan's ancient capital, Kyoto, there are two spring festivals of note. The Aoi Matsuri, or Hollyhock Festival, occurs every May 15. It is one of Kyoto's three big annual festivals (the other two are Gion and Gidai Matsuri). Aoi Matsuri is thought to be one of the oldest festivals in the world. Most historians trace its origins to the Heian | Men bear the Saio-Dai's palanquin from the imperial palace.
period in the sixth century a.d. The festival is named after the dark, shiny leaves of the aoi (hollyhock), which are carried or used as decoration during the celebration. The leaves are believed to protect against natural disasters.
Aoi Matsuri has two parts: processions and sacred rites. Most of the matsuri is a slow and solemn parade of two oxcarts, four cows, thirty-six horses, and six hundred people dressed in the traditional, colorful costumes of the imperial court. Historic characters, such as Saio-Dai, a princess of the Heian period, are portrayed during the celebration. There are also imperial messengers and their followers, as well as warriors, courtiers, guards, soldiers, musicians, and furyu-gasa (big umbrellas decorated with artificial flowers).
The first part of the matsuri, known as roto-no-gi, is basically a procession toward two sacred locations: the Shimogamo and Kamigamo Shrines. The | An archer and his horse outside the Kamigamo Shrine.
parade attracts thousands of spectators as it wends its way through the city. At each shrine the shato-no-gi rites are performed, fulfilling the ritualized aspect of the festival. The procession starts around 10:30 a.m. It leaves from the imperial palace and heads for the Shimogamo Shrine, where the initial ceremonies are performed. It then moves toward Kamigamo, which it reaches in the middle of the afternoon, for final rites.
Another important celebration is the Mifune Matsuri, or Three Boat Festival. This takes place on the third Sunday in May in Arashiyama, near Kyoto. The festival celebrates a time when dynasties ruled Japan and royal barges floated up and down the river.  | Wearing traditional outfits, geishas pose by the Oi River.
It is a colorful reenactment of the ancient aristocracy at play and in fact involves the use of around thirty boats.
Loaded with people dressed in costumes from the Heian era, the matsuri flotilla rows upstream, the imperial boat leading the way. The other boats focus on aspects of times past, such as dance, music, the tea ceremony, songs, and poetry. They carry musicians, dancers, and players who chant passages from Noh dramas and read from Japanese and Chinese poetry. Gagaku court music is played on the dragon boat. People rent pedal boats or rowboats to get a close view of the performers. Hundreds of spectators also crowd the riverbanks. Like all matsuri, the Three Boat Festival celebrates Japan's heritage and reaffirms the continuity and order of life.
Michel Friang is a freelance photographer and can be reached at (212)666 1097 or
MFriang6@aol.com
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